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Ask the AGA Cookery Doctor

Richard Maggs - AGA Cookery DoctorAGA Cookery Doctor Richard Maggs is on hand to answer all of your culinary conundrums. So if your soufflé is sinking, your cakes aren't rising or you simply want to know the best way to cook a certain dish, then drop him a line and he’ll be able to help. Here you can see some of the questions he's been asked and the answers he's given to various cooks around the country.

Send in your question here.

While the Cookery Doctor will do his very best to answer as many queries as he can, it may not be possible to answer every one.


 

Question: As a Canadian owner of an AGA, I have difficulty with some of the terms used in recipes.
Number 1 - what is caster sugar?
We have white granulated sugar, icing sugar, golden brown sugar, brown sugar, demerara sugar. Even when I ask friends from the UK, they do not know what caster sugar is.
Number 2 - what are Griottines cherries?  It is an ingredient in chocolate fruit cake and I have never been able to find such an item.  I have used cranberries, maraschino cherries, dried cherries.
If you can explain I would be very pleased. Joan Byrne

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Answer: Dear Joan
Caster sugar is called superfine in America, I don't know if you are familiar with that term.  It is the same substance as granulated sugar, but much finer, similar to fine table salt.  With each grain being smaller the surface area of the called for quantity of sugar is considerably greater.  The benefit in cooking is that it will therefore dissolve more quickly in a liquid than granulated sugar.  Also, where granulated sugar would show spot marks when used in a sponge cake, caster sugar avoids this problem.  Note that caster sugar is not as fine as icing or confectioners' sugar which is used to make icings, and is a dust-like fine sugar powder.  Note that in older British cookery books caster sugar is sometimes spelled castor sugar; it is the same ingredient.
Some high-performance blender and the Bamix wand blender are able (using the Bamix food mill) to process down granulated sugar into firstly caster sugar and then, if you continue processing, turn it into icing sugar.

Griottine cherries are a type of dried cherry, that are usually soaked in a spirit or liqueur to plump them up before they are used in a recipe.  They are available from specialist retailers, including some online, you can substitute dried cherries or cranberries if you find those easier to source.
I hope that helps.

Question: Christmas Pudding
I have made the Aga Christmas Pudding as I received the recipe by email.  It was very easy and hey are looking great and sitting waiting in the fridge.  The recipe does not tell me how to heat them up on the day.  They are fully cooked having spent the night in the bottom over but I just need to know the best method of warming them up.  Please would you advise.
Thank you
Iona Turner

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Answer: Dear Iona
To re-heat your Christmas pudding on Christmas Day you don’t need to re-steam it in the conventional way. Simply wrap the china, plastic or foil pudding basin in several layers of foil and place in the Simmering Oven all morning, next to the turkey if necessary. Over several hours it will slowly heat through ready for serving piping hot at the end of your meal. Custard and brandy sauce may be made towards the end of the morning and kept hot until wanted, covered, in the Warming or Simmering Ovens.

Question: Hi, I have a good harvest of mild chilli peppers in my greenhouse and I want to dry them in the bottom oven of my Aga- or I was thinking of stringing them up and hanging them over the Aga. Any tips?
Many thanks
Anne

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Answer: Dear Anne, When drying chilli peppers you will get the best results drying them slowly hung on a securely fixed string stretched above the Aga so that they enjoy a constant gentle warmth. The coolest oven on your model can be used for some fruit and vegetables, but generally "longer at a lower temperature" is the general maxim to obtain the best results.
I hope that helps.

Question: Dear Doctor Richard,
  We have a two oven AGA - our only form of cooking - and this year we are intending to cook our 14 pound (approx) turkey in the bottom oven; would you kindly let us know how we should do this, please?
Thank you.
With regards
Roland James

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Answer: Dear Mr James
  Thank you for your enquiry.
Point your browser to www.agaseason.co.uk and click on the Christmas Recipes tab near the top right hand corner.
Select "A Guide to Christmas Cooking" and a window will open up with my complete guide to how to slow roast a turkey in your two-oven Aga - it is a printable .PDF document.
Incidentally, if you have a friend with a Rayburn, a similar document (only written in Rayburn-speak) is similarly available from the Rayburn-web website, www.rayburn-web.co.uk.
As well as the free Aga recipes contained in the above booklet, this year there is also a selection of recipes and video clips featuring one of our Aga demonstrators, James McIntosh, that you can watch online, the link is near the link to the above cooking guide.  You might also be interested to know that there are further Christmas Aga Cooking Tips, found in my Christmas Aga Tips book.  It is the sixth in the series and has 50 useful tips for the Aga owner at Christmas.  Available from Aga Specialists and online at www.agacookshop.co.uk.

Question: Dear Richard
When I was cooking my Christmas Puddings in my 2 oven Aga, I was only able to cook 2 puddings (either 1.5 pint or 2 pint) at a time in my simmering oven. I used my Cake Baker and another large pan to do so, but the 2 of them completely filled the oven space.
Given that I made 8 puddings this year, it was a rather labourious process, cooking 2 at a time - can you suggest a way I can cook multiple puddings in my simmering oven. I look forward to hearing from you shortly
Kind regards,
Karen Cox

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Answer: Dear Karen
  There is an Aga utensil that will do this for you, and one of the reasons it is in the range is for exactly this kind of project.

The Aga 9.0 litre stainless steel stockpot is tall with a lid with the usual Aga recessed knob, so that it will fit in the height of the Simmering Oven.  And at 24cm in diameter, two will fit in, one behind the other, with 2 cm to spare.  Using two of these pans you can cook four 1½ or 2 pint puddings.  In each pan you have one pudding sitting on a trivet. Onto this place a circular wire cake cooling rack and then sit the second pudding on top of this.  In this way the lower pudding is strictly being boiled, and the upper pudding is classically steamed; the end result will be the same.

Pour boiling water in to come half-way up the base of the lower pudding.  Bring back to the boil on the Boiling Plate and then cover and move to the Simmering Plate and partially offset the pans here so that they slow boil for 30 minutes.  Then very carefully transfer the pans to sit on the floor of the Simmering Oven to cook for 12 hours or overnight.  No topping up will be required.

Don't forget, once you have mixed you pudding mixture, it will happily sit in its bowl covered in a cool place until you are able to make second and third night steamings until all your puddings are made.

Note:  If you were to use an old Aga aluminium preserving pan, add half a squeezed lemon of half a cup of vinegar to the water to prevent discoloration of the pan.

Question: Dear Richard, Please, please help. No matter how I try I just cannot make good bread in my 2-oven Aga. The crust is nearly always too hard, and even if it is anywhere near presentable it turns out to be stale the following day. What am I doing wrong? Yours sincerely, Nuala Shepley.

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Answer: Dear Nuala, Here are some pointers that should help improve things:

1. Make sure you use STRONG flour especially ground for baking bread.

2. For speed and ease, I suggest if you are not already using it, use a sachet of all-in-one "instant" yeast (Allinsons and the main supermarket chains do their own versions). Inspection of the packet reveals a magic ingredient - ascorbic acid (Vitamin C powder) which causes the yeast to have a whoopee party in your bread far faster than normal, giving an excellent rise. Check it is in date...

3. Some salt is needed or your bread will taste dire. Having said that, too much salt kills yeast, so measure accurately.

4. If your recipe doesn`t include any fat or oil, add an ounce or 25g as this gives slightly better elasticity and also drastically improves the keeping qualities.

5. Use hand-hot water (50:50 cold from a run tap and from a boiled kettle if you're in doubt).

6. Warm the flour in the bowl on top of the Aga for half an hour before you start to mix the dough.

7. The best way to describe dough that is the correct texture is, "silky" - neither too dry or too sticky.

8. A decent knead is essential. After human elbow grease, if you have one, a KitchenAid or Kenwood mixer with dough hook are both brilliant. If making a smaller amount and you don`t have one, but are the owner of a Magimix, check for the maximum size it will cope with, and use the plastic blade for the time given. If you are a fan of the "Doris Grant" loaf, a school of thought that dispenses with proper kneading, try a conventional recipe.

9. An initial proving and then knocking down and giving a second short knead before shaping into loaves or rolls before a final prove is worth the effort.

10. Prove on a surface next to the Aga, covered with oiled clingfilm each time. Avoid unnecessary draughts in the kitchen but don`t become paranoid!

11. If trying to make wholemeal bread a 50:50 mix of wholemeal and white makes a much easier to eat bread. Home-made 100% wholemeal is very close-textured and rather heavy going. I like 1/3 wholemeal to 1/3 mixed grain flour to 1/3 white for a change, by the way.

12. Bread likes a hot oven and an Aga top oven is the finest domestic oven in the world for baking bread. Best to use it for bread when it is at its hottest when you haven`t been baking other things, so I suggest you roll up your sleeves after breakfast and bake in the morning until you`ve got it cracked.

13. For a two oven Aga bake loaves on the grid shelf on the floor of the top oven.

14. Throw in an ice cube before you shut the door. It will melt on the hot oven floor and create a steamy environment which is ideal for that perfect crust.

15. I`m sure you know that to test for whether the bread is cooked you remove from the tins and tap the bases to see if they sound hollow. If you feel they need it, pop back in the oven, upside down, balanced in their tins for a couple of minutes. I hardly ever need to do this with an Aga, but it is worth mentioning.

16. Now an important bit which I hope will improve matters: after the loaves have cooled for a couple of minutes on a wire tray, wrap tightly in a clean tea towel to finish off cooling. It is at this point I think your bread may be drying out and developing the over-hard crust. I even wrap up loaves not for immediate use in cling film and freeze as soon as they are down to blood heat. This keeps the crust nice and soft. The fat or oil should also go a long way to improve matters.

Question: I  am having friends for dinner and would like to serve Beef Wellington for the main course. I have never cooked this in the Aga before and would like to know if I should use the cold shelf in my roasting oven to prevent the pastry from burning? Also, would I be able to put the cooked Beef Wellington into the simmering oven to keep hot until everything else is ready to serve? I own a two-oven Aga. Your advice would be gratefully appreciated. Many thanks Anne Deans

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Answer: Dear Anne

The recipe in Mary Berry`s Aga book works very well and can be prepared ahead of time, it will happily keep in the fridge for up to 24 hours. Cook as instructed, on the grid shelf on the floor of the roasting oven for 25-30 minutes until a pale golden brown. Then leave in the tin to rest for 10-15 mins on a cloth on top of the simmering plate lid before transferring to a warm serving platter and carving. I usually cook this as my guests arrive whilst serving drinks and canapes and when cooked to perfection leave to rest in this way while we eat the first course. I would not recommend hot-holding in the simmering or warming ovens as the meat will be likely to over cook and become an unattractive grey colour - a waste of good fillet. I would however make gravy ahead of time and keep that in the simmering oven, transferring to a gravy boat which has been warming on the top plate at the last minute. This means the handle of the gravy boat is cool enough to hold but the contents are piping hot.

Question: Dear Richard, How do I cook raspberry/strawberry jam on my 2 oven aga? Previously I made jam on a gas hob using a big old-fashioned jam pan. Kind regards, Helen Statham

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Answer: Dear Helen,
The Aga is brilliant for making all kinds of jams and preserves. A big old-fashioned pan can be used, providing it has a base which is (i) good and thick, i.e. 1/4 inch (6mm), and (ii) perfectly flat. Place a pan on the Simmering Plate and check to see if it makes perfect contact. If it rocks at all then it is not suitable. The Aga stainless steel stockpot/preserving pan and maslin pan are both classic designs which work brilliantly.

The Aga Boiling Plate is kept at a really high temperature and has a huge reserve of heat which is just what you want to bring jam to a good rolling boil ready for testing for a set. Another alternative would be to use the Aga Cake Baker as that again is a brilliant utensil for fast boiling preserves. When I was growing up I remember my family made what seemed like industrial quantities of jam each year. I think the record was 56 lbs of damson jam in the heat- wave of 1976. These days most of us make much more modest quantities, and I would recommend you make small batches no larger than 8 lb (4kg) yields. For some recipes fruit can be poached until it is tender in the Simmering Oven - this also works brilliantly for marmalade. Warm the sugar before adding as it helps it to dissolve quickly (use the Simmering or Warming ovens or flash in the Roasting Oven in a shallow layer in a roasting tin on the lowest set of runners for 3-4 minutes, but watch it isn`t over-heated). Always add the sugar with the pan on the Simmering Plate; when it has been stirred and every last grain of sugar has dissolved, transfer to the Boiling Plate which then has it's full reserve of heat waiting to bring everything rapidly to the boil.

Jam jars can be easily sterilised in the Aga Simmering Oven ready for potting.

Here is Mary Berry's delicious Strawberry and Raspberry Jam recipe from The Aga Book to get you started:

Strawberry or Raspberry Jam

Strawberries are particularly low in pectin and acid so a sugar such as jam or preserving sugar containing these is a boon for quick reliable results.

Makes 7 lb (3.5kg)

3 1/2 lb (1.75kg) prepared strawberries/raspberries, equivalent to 4 lb (2kg) unprepared strawberries/raspberries
2 x 1kg bag of jam sugar
knob of butter

Check fruit, removing any over-ripe or bad strawberries. Place in a large pan. Crush with a potato masher or purée first in a processor. Add sugar, heat gently on the Simmering Plate, stirring continuously until sugar is dissolved. Transfer to the Boiling Plate to bring to a fast rolling boil, that will not stir down, for 4 minutes. Remove from the heat. Stir in the butter. Ladle into warm jars and screw down lids tightly as each jar is filled.

Question: Hello,

I hope you can answer my question. I have owned AGA cookers for more years than I care to remember. I live in France and have a 2 oven AGA.

Today I found a recipe for a malt loaf which asks for it to be cooked at 140°C or 275°F. What would you suggest for the 1¼ to 1½ hours cooking time. I realise that the cold shelf in the roasting oven will not take the temperature down low enough and I can't see a cake rising in the simmering oven. Help !!!

I do still have my AGA cake baker - this recipe states I need a 2lb loaf tin - which AGA cake tin would you suggest for that, is the answer going to be, to use my AGA cake baker?

Many thanks - look forward to hearing from you.

Sheila

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Answer: Dear Shelia,

Thank you for your enquiry.

It is much easier for such a recipe in your model of Aga to bake the mixture divided between two 1 lb (450g) loaf tins. Place one inside a pre-heated Aga Cake Baker on a grid shelf on the floor of the Roasting Oven, with the second tin in front of the Cake Baker towards the front of the oven. The Cake Baker will absorb sufficient heat to prevent the unprotected cake becoming over-cooked. Protect with foil towards the end of cooking if necessary.

This is the tried and trusted method I have used on my own 2 oven Aga at home, usually for recipes calling for a baking environment equivalent to 180°C (350°F). As this recipe calls for a slightly lower setting still, slide the cold plain shelf onto the top set of runners above the preheated Cake Baker when you introduce the two cakes. Cutting off the top heat in this way will mean that both a more protected than they would otherwise be. Still keep an eye on the one outside the Cake Baker, in front of it, and use a piece of foil placed lightly over it, as described above, if it is browning more than you wish towards the end of the baking time, but it shouldn’t be necessary.

You are quite correct in your assertion about these cakes in the Simmering Oven, it would not be hot enough.

Kind regards

Richard Maggs

The Aga Cookery Doctor

Question: Dear Doctor Richard,

I am hoping you will be able to help me as I have promised to make 4 pavlovas for my daughter's wedding and am only having failures!

Mary Berry's recipe didn't set at all and I can't do Delia's recipe like I used to as she turns the oven off and leaves it to cool overnight.

I am getting desperate so PLEASE HELP!

I have a 3 oven model.

Best wishes

Penny Pearce

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Answer: Dear Mrs Pearce,

Thank you for your enquiry. I am sorry to hear of your frustration.

Some people just use a plain meringue mixture to make a pavlova, using 2oz (50g) of caster sugar per egg white. However, most recipes include a little vinegar and cornflour to encourage the desired mousse-like centre, so I would suggest you try the following recipe.

  • 3 egg whites
  • A pinch of salt
  • 6oz (175g) caster sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vinegar
  • 1 level teaspoon cornflour
  • 10 fl oz (300ml) whipping or double cream
  • 8 oz (225g) fresh fruit: raspberries, strawberries, kiwi fruit, or peaches etc.
  • A little icing sugar
  • Raspberry or mint leaves
  • 5 fl oz (150ml) single cream

Place a sheet of baking parchment on the cold plain shelf and draw an 8 inch (20cm) circle in pencil on the underside as a guide for forming the pavlova. Take a metal (copper if you are a classically trained chef!) or glass bowl that is scrupulously clean. Use one fresh from the dishwasher or hand-wash separately and dry with a fresh clean tea towel. Plastic bowls are almost impossible to render completely grease-free so are a recipe for disaster for egg white whisking. If still warm allow to cool. It is also important that your whisk is totally grease-free as well.

Place the egg whites with not a trace of yolk in the bowl with the salt. Whisk preferably using a pedestal or hand mixer (I use my Aga kMix) until very stiff. If by hand a balloon whisk is the best bet.

With the whisk still running add the sugar a teaspoonful at a time. Combine the cornflour with the vinegar in a cup and whisk in. Pile the glossy mixture on the marked out circle, and aim for a crown effect, with the centre forming a lower 'nest' area for the cream and soft fruit.

2, 3 and 4 oven Aga Cookers: Place the shelf on the grid shelf set on the floor of the Roasting Oven and leave for 3-4 minutes until very lightly coloured. Transfer to the centre of the Simmering Oven for 1 - 1½ hours until firm but soft in the centre.

Important Note For 3 oven 13 Amp electric Aga cookers it is essential that the oven vent fan be turned on for the whole of the duration of the drying period. Gas models vent continuously through the flue or powerflue system so there is nothing to turn on with these models.

The outer shell of the pavlova should be slightly chewy, with the centre revealing more of a marshmallow consistency. If you like a more fully dried out end product I suggest opening the door for a minute twice during the cooking period as this will allow more of the water to be driven off. Turn the Pavlova upside down and gently peel off the parchment. If the base is very soft you might like to return it upturned to the Simmering Oven for a further short spell to further dry out the base but I prefer it as it is. If you have used grease-free utensils, and not allowed any stray speck of yolk to contaminate the whites, and only add the sugar a teaspoon at a time you should have no trouble with syrup weeping out of meringue mixtures.

When cool, place on a serving platter – use one with a perfectly flat surface so that the Pavlova doesn't sag in the centre and crack. Lightly whip your cream until it just holds its shape and pile into the centre. Add your chosen fruit and lightly dredge with a little icing sugar. Add the bulk of your fruit to the centre and garnish with small clusters of your chosen fruit placed around the crown, using raspberry or mint leaves to finish off each cluster. Chill before serving. I like to serve with just a little single cream poured over each portion when serving. Undecorated, a Pavlova will freeze well for up to a month, filled and wrapped well in foil. To serve, allow two hours in a cool place and decorate when defrosted. Frozen raspberries are useful to keep in the freezer for quick and easy Pavlova fillings – fine for family meals but I prefer to use fresh fruit when entertaining.

Best Wishes

Richard Maggs

The Aga Cookery Doctor

Question: Dear Doctor Richard,

Please would you let me know if it is possible to cook waffles on the AGA hot plates?

Thanks,

Janet

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Answer: Dear Janet,

Many thanks for you enquiry.

To cook waffles on an Aga you need a suitable waffle iron. There is only one that I have found to work well, as most have handles which cause the iron body to not sit down and make good contact with the hotplate to ensure the necessary transfer of heat.

The Nordic Ware square waffle iron is made of heavy cast aluminium and is non-stick lined, making four waffles at a time. It is currently on the market in a "no frills" version without a temperature gauge, they are stocked in small independent cookshops or you can pick up second-hand ones that are in good condition and have the original small circular temperature gauge on each side. The advantage of these is that it makes getting the two sides of the iron to the correct temperature much easier and less of a hit-and-miss affair. The handles on this iron are thin and oval plastic ones so that when the iron is placed on the Aga Boiling Plate they clear the black enamel top plate and don't cause the iron to lift up.

You can re-heat home-made or bought waffles of all types on a circle of Bake-O-Glide on the Simmering Plate, allowing 1-2 minutes a side.

I hope that helps.

Best Wishes

Richard Maggs

The Aga Cookery Doctor